Crochet Baby Blanket With Flower embellishments

Yellow crochet baby blanket with three white flowers in each corner and a simple white border.

 
 I originally planned to publish a pattern for this blanket. Then I was crunched for time and didn’t design my own crochet flowers. Then I decided a tutorial aimed at helping you design your own baby blanket would be more helpful anyway.

The blanket I made is fairly simple. It is yellow with a white border and three crochet flowers in each corner. They are small five petal flowers that I learned how to make from this blog post.

The first thing you need to do to make your own blanket is to figure out your gauge in the stitch pattern you want. I chose to use a plain single crochet background so I made a swatch of about 20 single crochet stitches and worked even until I had about 4 inches of fabric. My gauge ended up being 10 stitches per 4 inches. It really doesn’t come out that even very often. I wanted the blanket to be about 36” including the border. Allowing an inch for the border on each side it would need to be 34” so with my gauge of 10 stitches per 4 inches, I would need 85 stitches. Simple enough. Then I just continued working row upon row of single crochet until the blanket was square. I added a border of 4 single crochet rows in white. I was going for a classic and clean effect but you could use any kind of border you wanted. A lace border would be really pretty. There are a couple of things to note when working a crochet border in the round. You need to work three stitches into each corner stitch/ this makes the corners square. Another thing to remember is when you get to the end of the round you join the stitch you just finished to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch. Then you chain 1 for single crochet and turn the work to start the next round.

 

Closeup of white crochet flowers in the corner of a yellow baby blanket. Also shows a white border.

 

I added 12 flowers to my blanket. They were small and I put 3 in each corner. You can use as few or as many flowers as you want. It would even be nice to use just one large flower or none at all. Be creative and experiment.

The yarn I used was Bernat Softee Baby in Lemon and White. I double stranded the yarn and needed 4 balls of Lemon and 1 ball of white. You can make a baby blanket as thick or thin as you want it. Just figure out your gauge and how many stitches you need.

This is the baby blanket I made for my cousin who is due any day now. Her first two children wore holes in their baby blankets so I’m hoping this one holds up a little longer. One thing I know is that it will be very well loved.

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Karen’s Alphabet Blocks

Contributed by Karen Schrade

This pattern makes stockinet cubes. Each side of the cube is worked in a different color with a print letter in the center of each side. Cubes are roughly 3x3x3 inches (7x7x7 cm) in size.

This is a basic recipe for the blocks. Lots of things can be changed to suit your own preference:

I used Peaches and Crème and Sugar and Cream Cotton Worsted. Originally, I tried these using Caron Simply Soft yarn. They were nice, but for a baby, I wanted something not so fuzzy.

To get the fabric right, I used size 1 knitting needles because I tend to knit loosely. That gave me a very dense fabric, which was what I wanted.

The stuffing is simply polyester fiberfill. I could use the blocks as covers for foam rubber cubes, but I wanted them to be totally washable. With the fiberfill, they can just go into the washing machine.

For my letters, I used Marjorie Arnott’s Charted Alphabet. Most of the letters are 8 stitches wide and 10 rows tall.

Size

My blocks are coming out almost 3 inches (7 cm) square on each side, so if you knit tighter than I do, you can probably go up a needle size or two.

Construction

To make 4 sides of the cube, I make a strip of 4 squares, then seam the cast on and bind off edges together. I do a turning row between each square to give the cube its shape. Then I make two individual squares to sew into the spaces at each end of the box.

You can do whatever you want with the colors. I am making each block as bright and varied as possible. I’ve been doing my individual squares in white with colored letters, and on each strip, I’ve been doing two colored squares without letters and two colored squares with letters.

Materials

Cotton Worsted yarn, 7 colors including white.

Size 1 (2.25 mm) straight knitting needles or size to make a block the way you want it.

Polyester fiberfill for stuffing the blocks.

Instructions

The Strip

With one of the bright colors, cast on 16 sts.

*work 18 rows in stst starting with a k row and ending with a p row.

Knit two rows for the turning. You get a ridge on the right side of the fabric.

Change colors.

**Work in st-st for 4 rows starting with a k row and ending with a p row.

Work your letter over the next 10 rows continuing in stst and changing colors for the letter itself. (I’ve been using white for the letters but you can use any color you want that will contrast with the background.)

Then work 5 rows in st-st, starting with a k row and ending with a k row.**

Do your turning row again, a knit row to create the ridge on the RS.

Work the next two squares of the strip by working from the * again.

Bind off loosely and join the cast-on and bind-off edges together.

For the individual squares

Make 2.

Cast on 16 sts.

Work from ** to ** as above.

Bind off loosely and sew into the side of the strip. The corners of the individual square will match the turning ridges.

Make sure to leave a small opening when joining the last individual square so you can stuff the block.

Notes

1. If you cut off about 2 yards of yarn in the “letter color” you can just let it hang behind the square till it’s needed again. That makes it easy to twist the yarns together to avoid long floats on the back of the square.

2. I’ve found that it’s better not to stuff the blocks too tightly. They tend to round out if they’re too firm.

3. Sewing the squares into the strip is the most time-consuming part of the whole thing. You can either overcast or mattress stitch the squares in place. If you overcast them, sew them firmly.

4. Any ends do not need to be woven in, but I’ve been tying the beginning and ending strands of yarn for the letters together. I don’t want them to figure a way to work themselves out!

5. Instead of choosing colors, I’ve been putting all of the yarn except the white into a bag. I randomly pull out a color for the square to be worked. When it’s finished, I put it into another bag and pick a second yarn randomly. Then when I finish the whole set of yarns, I start again. It’s making for some interesting combinations, like orange next to purple, but they’re children’s blocks and I want them to be as bright as possible. You can do the strip in a solid color, but remember to do the turning ridges. I’ve also done a couple with only two colors on the strips. Another option is to use a variegated yarn for the “non-letter” squares. That works well too, and you can do the other squares with a complementary color.

Tips for Braille Instead of Print Letters

If you want to put Braille on the blocks instead of print, you can work a popcorn for each dot: just knit into the front and back of a stitch repeatedly until you have five stitches instead of one; then pass the second, third, fourth, and fifth stitches over the one that is closest to the tip of the needle.

For contrast, you can make each side of the block in a solid color and later work the Braille dots with a different color.

Put a pin into the stitch you will make the popcorn in, and keep working. Then when you’re finished, pull a strand of whatever other color yarn you want to use from the wrong side of the fabric, pick up one of the stitches that has a pin, and work the popcorn. When it’s finished, pull the yarn back to the wrong side, and tie it to the beginning of the strand so it doesn’t come out. Repeat this process for any dots.

I’ve done this with bobble buttons and it works fine. It looks really nice to have a contrasting color button on a baby sweater.

Row Counter Bracelet

Karen’s post on i-cord gave me an idea for a row counter bracelet. This one is a double i-cord band that separates into two lengths of single i-cord, each with large beads that can be slid from one end to another, abacus style. There’s a divider that keeps the beads from sliding away from where they belong.

The idea is simple. The 9 beads on one length of i-cord each represent one row. The 10 beads on the other length of i-cord each represent 10 rows. Slide one bead from one side of the divider to the other each time you finish a row. When you get to Row 10, slide the 9 beads to the opposite side of the divider, and bring one of the other beads across.

While groovy in its own way, the bracelet isn’t the most stylish accessory on the planet, but it is practical and easy to carry around with your latest knitting project.

Materials

• 19 pony beads (9 of one shape, texture, or color and 10 of another). Pony beads are the pea or garbanzo sized beads with large holes, often used in children’s crafts. You can pick up some plastic pony beads at places like Wal-Mart and Michael’s, or you can order wood or glass pony beads from places like Shipwreck Beads.
• Small amount of yarn (DK or thinner). I used the Dk weight yarn leftover from a pair of socks. When I finished the bracelet, I still had enough to make plenty more. Worsted weight yarn is too thick to fit through the beads. Sport and fingering weight yarn work better. I worked from both ends of the yarn, so if you can’t find the other end, cut a length that is a couple of yards/meters long.
• 3.0 mm needles. Any needle that is 3.5 mm or thinner should work. I used a circular needle, but 2 DPN’s would have been just as well.
• Twist tie. This is the short length of wire you use to close plastic bags. They’re great for stringing beads and for sliding beads from the working yarn to the length of i-cord.
• Tapestry needle (for sewing and weaving in ends).

Bracelet

This really is a lot easier to make than it sounds. The goal is to make the bracelet a little smaller than you would like because the yarn stretches.

String 9 beads onto working yarn, and slide them away for now.

Cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: K3, P3.

Row 2: K3, bring working yarn to front of work, sl3.

Rep Row 2 until bracelet is 2 inches (5 cm) long.

String 10 beads to another end of yarn and slide them away for now.

Thread this second end of yarn through the 6 stitches on the needle so that the tail end is closest to the tip of the needle and the ball end is farthest. The result is 3 knit stitches followed by a working yarn, then 3 purl stitches followed by a second working yarn. You’re ready to work two separate pieces of i-cord.

Row 3: With first working yarn in back, k3; with second working yarn in front, p3.

Rep Row 3 until the separate i-cords are about 3.5 inches (9 cm) long.

Slide the twist tie through the 3 stitches of one i-cord. Fold the twist tie in half. Hold the working yarn next to the twist tie, and slide the beads down the working yarn and onto the i-cord. Slip the stitches back onto the needle, remove the twist tie, and do the same for the second i-cord.

Break the yarn of the i-cord that is farthest from the tip of the needle. Thread it through all 6 stitches, and continue with instructions, using the remaining working yarn.

Row 4: K3, bring working yarn to front of work, sl3.

Rep Row 4 2 inches (5 cm) more.

Bind off.

Sew Cast-on and bind-off edges together, and weave in all ends.

Divider

You can make the divider in a number of ways. I’ve tried all of these methods, and they all work, so it’s really a matter of which one you like best. The hardest part for all is securing the divider so that the beads can be pushed through intentionally, but not slide through on their own.

The method I’m using now is the first one listed. When I find someone with a camera, I’ll post a picture.

• Find a decorative button with a post in the back. Thread a 6-inch (15 cm) length of very narrow ribbon, yarn, or string through the post. Position the button between the two single i-cords. Wrap one end of the ribbon around one of the i-cords and thread it through the post; wrap the other end of the ribbon around the other i-cord and thread it through the post. Adjust the ribbon so that beads can be pushed through the loops. Then holding both tails together, tie an overhand knot with both ends to secure, trimming excess.
• Take a short-length of narrow elastic. Wrap it around one piece of single i-cord, then the other in a figure-8. Sew it in place, making sure the figure-8 loops are big enough to push the beads through, but not so big the beads can slide through on their own. If you don’t have any elastic, but you have some Fixation, Esprit, or another highly elastic yarn, you can make an i-cord loop that does the same thing.
• Make a rectangle that is roughly 2 inches (5 cm) long and 5 inch (1.2 cm) wide. Wrap it around both single i-cord strands. Then sew the two ends of the divider together (with seam in back),, sewing front and back of the divider together forming a waist between the single i-cords so that beads can be pushed through the divider.
• Make a length of i-cord that is 9 inches (22 cm) long. Fold the i-cord in half. Slip it under the bracelet. Pull ends through loop as when you make fringe. Then tie ends into a bow. Work loosely to give yourself enough room for pushing beads through.•

Shells & Stairways: a Reversible Scarf with scalloped Edging

Photo by Rich Hill

Contributed by Donna W. Hill

On receiving a Braille copy of Barbara G. Walker’s A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns (Schoolhouse Press, 1998) from National Library Services for the Blind (NLS) this winter, I headed straight to the last chapter — “Edgings.” These patterns, often under fifteen stitches wide, are generally made in long narrow strips and sown onto the bottoms of everything from fancy skirts and blouses to curtains and pillow cases.

OK, I hate to sew, but I love these little edging patterns. Nonetheless, unless you want them for headbands or belts, you’ve got to do more than just knit them as is. I started by incorporating several edgings into round table scarves using the short-row method, but I was looking for something else.

Walker came to my rescue. She suggests that some edgings can be seamlessly incorporated up the sides of things like afghans. The best edgings for this purpose are those that are reversible.

I wanted to make fancy scarves for the girls in our neighborhood, and I wanted them to be unique. I like scarves, but I’m not fond of fringes. They get caught on things and fray. What about using edgings as fancy vertical borders instead?

Knitting the Stairways

Photo by Rich Hill

The main pattern for this scarf is Rib and Welt Diagonals (2nd TKP, p. 9). I first encountered this pattern as Reversible Diagonal from Amy Carroll’s out-of-print Pattern Library Knitting (Ballantine Books 1981). I didn’t alter anything about it except the name, which (in both instances) makes it sound much plainer than it is. It’s not just diagonal stripes. It looks like a series of staircases with a bit of ribbing between them, which could be handrails. It is reversible, though the staircases slant in the opposite direction.

The stairways are made from two-row blocks of 5 stitches which are alternated between reverse stockinette (purlground) and stockinette stitch. They are flanked by 3 stitches of k1, p1 ribbing. The purlground blocks stick up to form the steps, and the stockinette blocks are recessed, forming the risers between them. The steps role a bit simulating the way real steps hang over their risers. The ribbing follows the steps and accents the diagonal line.

The 8 stitch figure shifts one stitch to the right every right-side row. Thus, the pattern requires 16 rows. Walker starts with “k1, p1, k1, p5.” Remember that although we read left to right; we knit right to left.

Rows 1, 3 and 5 shift from having all three ribbing stitches at the beginning of the right-side row, to having just two and then only one. Thus, the pattern shows stitches before the asterisk and the last repeat is incomplete. On row 7, the full five-stitch block (as stockinette) is at the beginning. The right-side rows throughout the rest of the 16-row pattern find the first block reduced from five stitches to four, three, two and one.

For a more thorough explanation of how purlground and stockinette patterns interact vertically and horizontally in this pattern, visit The Knitter’s Gazebo: Lessons from Shells & Stairways Scarf.

Knitting the Shell Edging

The Shell Edging, which runs the length of both sides of the scarf, is essentially identical on both right and wrong sides. It is a combination of two stitches from Walker’s Plain Scalloped Edging (2nd TKP, pp. 255-6) with 9 stitches of fagoting and a 3-stitch garter strip, which serves as the inner border.

Several things are happening. After the 3-stitch garter section, little bundles of stitches (made from yarn over ssk, k1 on one side and k2 p1 on the other) separate the stairway design from the scallops. Each side needs 11 stitches for this vertical border. My husband originally called the scallops “clam shells” and then said they resemble the beehive hairdos of the ’60s. I prefer thinking of them as shells.

The Plain Scallop pattern requires 16 rows — a perfect match-up with the stairway pattern. Shells are made in garter stitch by increasing eight stitches, one stitch every row — yes, every row. Those two stitches grow into ten. Decreasing is then done on every row. For a shallower scallop, try it on every other row.

Although this scarf is reversible, be sure to plug in the right-side row when knitting it. I call the odd-numbered rows the right side, and it is from that perspective that I refer to the right-hand and left-hand shells on the edges of the scarf.

Variations on the Scarf

For a wider scarf, add a multiple of 8 to the center. Make it wider still, and call it a stole. Add more garter stitches to the inside of the edging, or add multiples of three stitches for extra fagoting.

Shells & Stairways Scarf

This pattern incorporates Rib and Welt Diagonals with a shell edging based on Walker’s Plain Scalloped Edging (2nd TKP, p. 255) and a bit of fagoting. The stairways can be widened by multiples of eight stitches to form a stole or rectangular shawl.

Materials: 8 oz. Bernat Baby Sport yarn (Baby Denim), size 5 needles and 4 place markers. Substitute your favorite yarn and needles.

Cast on 46 stitches

Note: place markers after the first 11 stitches and before the last 11 stitches to separate the stairway pattern from the two edges. The other two go after the first 2 stitches and before the last 2; these define the increase/decrease sections for the shells along the edge, which go from 2 to 10 stitches.

Inc: increase 1 stitch — knit into front and back of next stitch.

Preparation Row (wrong side): k 35, (to last 11 sts), PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, inc, k1 (3 sts, begins first right-hand shell).

Row 1 (right side): k1, inc, k1, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, *k1, p1, k1, p5; repeat to PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, inc, k1 (3 sts, begins first left-hand shell).
Row 2: k1, inc, k1, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, *k5, p1, k1, p1; repeat to PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k2, inc, k1.
Row 3: k1, inc, k3, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1; last repeat, k5, p1, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k2, inc, k1.
Row 4: k1, inc, k3, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k1, *p5, k1, p1, k1; end p5, k1, p1, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k4, inc, k1.
Row 5: k1, inc, k5, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k1, *p5, k1, p1, k1; end p5, k1, p1, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k4, inc, k1.
Row 6: k1, inc, k5, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1; end k5, p1, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k6, inc, k1.
Row 7: k1, inc, k7 (10 sts, ends increase for right-hand shell), PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, *k5, p1, k1, p1; repeat to PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k6, inc, k1.
Row 8: k1, inc, k7 (10 sts, ends increase for left-hand shell), PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, *k1, p1, k1, p5; repeat to PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k7, k2 tog, k1 (9 sts, begins decrease for right-hand shell).
Row 9: k1, k2 tog, k6, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, p4, *k1, p1, k1, p5; end (k1, p1) twice, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k7, k2 tog, k1 (9 sts, begins decrease for the left-hand shell).
Ro 10: k1, k2 tog, k6, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k5; end p1, k1, p1, k4, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k5, k2 tog, k1.
Row 11, k1, k2 tog, k4, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k3, *p1, k1, p1, k5; end p1, k1, p1, k2, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k5, k2 tog, k1.
Row 12: k1, k2 tog, k4, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, p2, *k1, p1, k1, p5; end k1, p1, k1, p3, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k3, k2 tog, k1.
Row 13: k1, k2 tog, k2, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, p2, *k1, p1, k1, p5; end k1, p1, k1, p3, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k3, k2 tog, k1.
Row 14: k1, k2 tog, k2, PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k3, *p1, k1, p1, k5; end p1, k1, p1, k2, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k1, k2 tog, k1.
Row 15: k1, k2 tog (ends decrease for right-hand shell), PM, (k2, p1) twice, k3, PM, k1, *p1, k1, p1, k5; end p1, k1, p1, k4, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, k1, k2 tog, k1.
Row 16: k1, k2 tog, (2 sts, ends decrease for left-hand shell), PM, p4, *k1, p1, k1, p5; end (k1, p1) twice, PM, k3, (yo, ssk, k1) twice, PM, inc, k1 (3 sts, begins increase for next right-hand shell).

Repeat Rows 1-16 to desired length. On final Row 16, knit the last 11 stitches. Bind off.

So-You-Can-Stick-Your-Fingers-Out Mittens

Contributed by Karen Shrade

These are seed stitch mittens with a flap above the palm. I designed them this way because I am lazy. There is no picking up stitches, no button or buttonhole, and no curling problem when you work them flat with two straight needles.

If you want to do them circularly, the numbers don’t change. The top shaping is different, though: you just do a double decrease at the beg and at the halfway point on every other round. Otherwise, it works the same.

I tried them out this weekend and they work quite well. I could slip my fingers out, use a key, or snap my hood, and then retract my fingers quickly into the warmth.

The pattern is written out for women’s mittens, but notes for men’s mittens are included at the bottom.

Materials:
• Worsted weight yarn. I got 2 mittens (easily) out of a 100 g. skein. I used Karen Simply Soft for my first try and then Encore Colorspun for the second. Both worked fine. The colorspun seems a little lighter, though.
• Size 4 (3.5 mm)and 6 (4.5 mm) needles.
• 2 Stitch holders and 2 ring markers

Gauge: Approximately 4 sts to the inch in seed stitch with size 6 needles, but it isn’t critical.

Single Rib Stitch pattern
Row 1: * K1, p1 *.
Row 2: * P1, k1 *.

Seed stitch Pattern
All rows: k1, *p1, k1 *.

With size 4 ndls and worsted weight yarn, cast on 36 sts and single rib for 20 rows (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Change to size 6 ndls and k 1 row, decreasing 1 st at center (35 sts).

Work 9 rows of seed st (or more if you want a longer cuff).

Start the thumb gusset

First row (RS): work 17 sts in seed st, place marker, (p, k, p) into the next st, place marker, work 17 sts in seed st.

Next row: (Keeping in seed stitch pattern) Work 17, slip marker, , p1, k1, p1 slip marker, work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, inc in the first and last stitch between markers (keeping seed stitch pattern), work pattern to end.

Next row: Work 17, slip marker, k1, (p1, k1) twice, slip marker, work pattern to end.

Continue in this manner till you have 13 sts between the markers. Then work one wrong side row even.

Thumb:

First row (RS): Work 18, slip 11 sts to a holder, work to end.

Next row: work 17, p2 tog, work to end.

Start the flap:

First row for right mitten (RS): Work 19, slip next 15 sts to another holder, turn and cast on 17 stitches, k1. You have 37 sts on the needle.

First row for left mitten (RS): k1, slip 15 stitches to a holder, turn and cast on 17, seed st to end.

For both mittens: At each end of the cast on section you will work 2 sts together. This keeps it nice and neat.
For the left mitten, work 19, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, k1.
For the right mitten, k1, p2 tog, work 13, p2 tog, finish in seed stitch.

Now, work on these 35 sts in seed stitch. When 20rows are complete, place markers on each side of the center purl stitch.

Top of mitten

Dec row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, (p1, k1) to 3 sts before first marker, k2 tog, k1; Slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, k2 tog, (p1, k1) to last 3 sts, k2 tog, k1: 4 sts decreased.
Dec row 2: K2, (p1, k1) to last st before marker, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k2, (p1, k1) to last st, k1.
Dec row 3: K1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to 3 sts before marker, p2 tog, k1; slip marker, p1, slip marker; k1, p2 tog, (k1, p1) to last 3 sts, p2 tog, k1
Dec Row 4: Work in seed stitch even, k1, (p1, k1) to end.
Rep these four rows 3 times: 11 sts rem.

Last row: (K2 tog) twice, sl1, k2 tog, psso, (k2 tog) twice: 5 sts.

Cut yarn and thread through these sts, pulling up tight and fastening off.
Now, go back to the flap stitches. Put them back onto a size 6 needle, and join yarn. Work 14 rows of seed stitch, this time starting and ending with a p stitch. Bind off loosely. Sew the flap to the inside of the mitten. Then sew the side seam of the mitten.

Return to the 11 thumb stitches, and work 12 rows. You will start and end with P1. Last thumb row: K2 tog twice, sl1, K2 tog, Psso, K2 tog twice: 5 sts. Cut yarn and thread through these stitches, pulling tight. Sew seam.

Notes for a Man’s mitten

For a man’s mitten, cast on 40 stitches and rib for 25 rows.

Dec 1 st at center of next row for 39 stitches. You will work the mitten the same way as above.

Thumb gusset will inc to 15 sts and the thumb will be worked on 13 sts.

The flap is worked on 17 sts.

You have to work dec rows 1 and 2 again for the top shaping.

This mitten fit my husband.

I hope you like the mittens.

Winter Wonderland Ice Skate Ornaments

Contributed by: Paulette Vickery

These miniature ice skates make cute holiday package decorations, lapel pins, or Christmas tree or wreath ornaments.

Materials:
• Small amount of Karon Christmas Glitter worsted weight yarn in gold or silver
• 2 jumbo gold or silver paper clips
• Size H crochet hook.
• Tapestry needle

Gauge: Not important to over all size.

Row 1. With long smooth side of paper clip facing down, attach yarn with a slst to the top right end of paper clip. Chain 1. Work 7 sc over paper clip. Chain 1, turn. 7 sc.

Row 2. Sc dec over first 2 stitches. Sc to end of row. Chain 1, turn. 6, sc.

Row 3. Sc in first 4 scs. Chain 1, turn. 4, sc.

Rows 4-7. Work even. Chain 1, turn at end of each row. 4, sc at end of each row.

Finishing:
At end of row 7, the “toe” end of the ice skate, chain 30. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for other ice skate.

Tie ice skates together in a bow, using “lace” at toe end of each skate for ties.

Paulette vickery is the crocheting and knitting editor for Seeing It Our Way, the braille and large print magazine published by Horizons for the Blind.

Clover Rib Socks

Sock knitting is my thing. It’s the heel. I can’t get over how magical it is. So I invented a heel, which I call the Petca heel, after a possible patron saint of knitting. Then I discovered it’s very similar to Fleegle’s Heel and concluded that great minds think alike. These cuff-down socks feature that heel.

The stitch pattern is clover rib. It’s a 2×3 rib with a mock cable that reminds me of links in a chain.

Materials
• 2 50-g balls of Comfy Soft Sport
• 2 2.5 mm circs
• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

2×2 Ribbing
Rnd 1 and all rnds: * K2, p2 *.

Clover Rib Stitch
Rnd 1: * p1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1 *.
Rnd 2: * P1, k3, p1 *.
Rnd 3: * P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1 *.
Rnds 4-6: * P1, k3, p1 *.

Socks

make 2.

Cast on 52 sts and join to work in the round.

Cuff

Work 9 rnds of 2×2 ribbing.

Knit 1 rnd.

Next rnd: P2 tog, (* k3, p2; rep to end of ndl, ending k1) 2x: 50 sts.

Work 5 reps of Clover Rib stitch or more if desired.

Petca Heel

The heel increases are worked between the second and third and between the second to last and third to last pattern repeats of theClover Rib stitch. Any increase will do.

Rnd 1: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, yo, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 2: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 3: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, yo, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 4: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 5: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, yo, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, yo, p1 (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 6: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k1, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 7: (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x, p1, k1, yo, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k1, p1, (P1, yo, sk2p, yo, p1) 2x.
Rnd 8: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k1, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k2, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 9: (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x, p1, k2, yo, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 6x, p1, yo, k2, p1, (P1, k1, yo, ssk, p1) 2x.
Rnd 10: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, p1, k2, k1 tbl, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 6x, p1, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and k3, p1, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 11: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, yo, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.
Rnd 12: (P1, k3, p1) 2x, sl yo knitwise, return to rhn without untwisting and p1, (P1, k3, p1) 8x, p1 tbl, (P1, k3, p1) 2x.

One repeat of Clover Rib stitch is complete, and the heel increase of Rnds 11 and 12 is identical to that in Rnds 1 and 2.

Continue as established. The increase in Rnds 13 and 14 is like the one in Rnds 3 and 4. the increase in rnds 15 and 16 is like the one in Rnds 5 and 6. Instead of working 6 pattern repeats as between increases, you are now working 8 repeats.

Stop when you’ve increased to 62 sts, finishing with an even rnd, row 4 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Heel Turn

Row 1: K4, skp, k1, turn.
Row 2: P to end of Ndl 1, p4, p2 tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, k1, turn.
Row 4: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, p1, turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 till there are 12 sts between the gap and the beg/end of rnd.

Row 5: K to end of Ndl 2, k to 1 st before gap in work, skp, turn.
Row 6: P to end of Ndl 1, p to 1 st before gap in work, p2 tog, turn.

Rep Rows 5 and 6 till 52 sts rem. Each ndl should hold 12 sts on the heel side of the gap and 14 sts on the instep side.

Rnd 7: K to 1 st before the gap, m1 (by inserting the rhn under the horizontal strand between the st just worked and the one about to be worked and knitting through the back of the loop), skp, k to last 11 sts on Ndl 1, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k to 1 st before gap on Ndl 2, m1, k2 tog, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 8: K15, p1, (p1, k3, p1) 4x, p1, k15.

You have finished the heel and are ready to start working the foot with Rnd 1 of the Clover Rib stitch.

Foot.

Rnd 1: K15, p1, (clover rib), p1, k15.
Rep Rnd 1 till there are 17, 18 or 19 (small, medium, or large) reps of clover rib stitch down the ankle and instep, starting at the ribbing.

Toe

Place markers after St # 8, 17, 34, and 43. There are invisible markers at the end of each ndl. In all, there are 6 markers.

Rnd 1 and all odd rnds: K.
Rnd 2: K to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x, k to marker, sm, (ssk, k to marker, sm) 2x: 48 sts.
Rnd 4: * k2 tog, k to marker, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rnd 6: * K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm * (6 sts decreased).
Rep Rnds 3-6 till 6 sts rem.

Break yarn, draw tail through live sts, and pull to close hole.

Weave in ends, and wear with style.

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